This universe, which is the same for all, has not been made by any god or man, but it always has been, is, and will be an ever-living fire, kindling itself by regular measures and going out by regular measures.
~ Heraclitus, Fragment 30
Joel Bowman, hot-stepping it across the Aegean, from the Acropolis of Lindos, Rhodes…
Founded a mere 3,000 years ago, by the Dorian king Tlepolemus of Rhodes, the ancient city of Lindos has deep, if quasi-mythological roots.
Birthplace of Chares of Lindos, he who sculpted the giant colossus baring the island’s name, and once ruled by Cleobulus, one of the Seven Sages of Greece, the tiny hilltop citadel proved a strategic stronghold for the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Knights of St John and Ottomans, respectively.
To you, O Sun, the people of Dorian Rhodes set up this bronze statue reaching to Olympus, when they had pacified the waves of war and crowned their city with the spoils taken from the enemy.
Not only over the seas but also on land did they kindle the lovely torch of freedom and independence. For to the descendants of Herakles belongs dominion over sea and land.
~ Dedication for the Statue, from Anthologia Graeca
Today, the spectacular ruins, dominated still by the impressive temple of Athena Lindia, which attained its final form sometime around 300 BC, are open to all comers. As you can see from our amateur footage above, it is a pilgrimage well rewarded indeed.
Visiting the site a couple of weeks ago, we had no idea that the surrounding areas would soon be under siege once more… this time by the ravages of a summer blaze, set alight by crazed arsonists. The fires are under control again now, owing to the efforts of a brave, multi-national cadre of firefighters… but not before the popular presses put the fear of Hephaestus into would-be visitors.
At these times, we like to recall Heraclitus’s wise words, quoted above, for a little perspective. Lindos has survived the rise and fall of many an empire… and we hope she survives many to come yet. Alas, the local Rhodian community, heavily dependent on tourism, is subject to economic downturns.
If you’re planning a sojourn on this magnificent island, with all its ancient splendor, delicious cuisine and postcard beaches, you can add to the list of wonders a very grateful and welcoming local community, who will be especially brimming with Xenia (that incomparable ancient Greek concept of hospitality) when they greet you.
¡Yia Sas!
Joel Bowman
P.S. Did you notice? Your wayfaring editor’s second novel – Night Drew Her Sable Cloak – is now available on Amazon! You can grab a hardcover copy here… or simply become a member of The Modern Flâneur and download the Ebook (plus our first novel) in the Books section atop the page. Happy reading!
P.P.S. Know someone looking for a good summer read, whether on an ancient pilgrimage or in a comfy armchair?
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